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The facade of the uncompleted Mingun Pahtodawgyi stupa in Mingun, outside Mandalay. The cracks are the result of a massive earthquake that hit central Myanmar in March 1839. The death toll from last ...

I don’t recall the road to Mandalay as vividly as the journey from it. In 2012, my friend and I were traipsing around Southeast Asia. Myanmar was just reemerging as a travel destination after years of ...